There were five of us in the small sauna: two guys, one woman, my companion and myself, all nude. And then, as if responding to the sheer force of my will, the guys left. And so I sat in the sauna with two naked women, nobody saying a word. That is until my companion whispered, “It’s too hot--I’m leaving.” And so she did.
And there I sat, about three feet from this wildly attractive woman, neither of us speaking a word. Silence, you remember, is more often than not the rule at Harbin Hot Springs. And the truth is I didn’t care a bit if I could speak or not. In fact if I had been struck mute at that moment it wouldn’t have bothered me at all, just as long as I could continue to gaze upon this remarkable creature. Take my voice, take my ears, but please God, don’t take my eyes!
We sat in steamy silence, she relaxing with eyes closed and I fantasizing like a maniac. I’ve never been a foot guy because, after all, I have feet. But for some reason I found myself tremendously attracted to hers. I suppose I wasn’t simply lusting after her feet—I was just considering them a starting point. And then suddenly the light in the sauna went out, and this glorious woman and I were sitting, silent and sweaty and naked, in near darkness.
What was going on? First everybody leaves except me and this goddess, and then the lights go out. In my head I could hear God’s voice: “Is there anything you need me to do?” But still I did nothing, except for expelling an occasional and audible sigh. This was, after all, Harbin. And grabbing a woman’s foot, or whatever, in the sauna was simply not acceptable behavior. One false move and security might drag me from the sauna, naked and screaming, and throw me through the front gate and into the parking lot.
And as if to confirm my thoughts the woman stood up and walked out the sauna door. I watched as she moved away and it was an even better view than her feet. I exited the sauna about ten seconds later and met my companion, who had been waiting for me on a bench right outside. “The light went out,” I said, and we proceeded to the soaking pools.
There are a variety of soaking pools at Harbin. Each is a different size and contains a different temperature of water. And has different rules. Once outside of the sauna my companion and I headed for the heart-shaped conversation pool. This pool contains body-temperature water and is the most sociable of the pools—at least if you’re referring to talking. Even so, the discourse is rare and seldom rises above a whisper. It’s very pleasant in the conversation pool and the tepid water allows for a long dunk, but I was eager to move on.
A sign at the meditation pool prohibits talking. It also warns against “sexual contact.” It was because of this sign (but not only) that my companion and I began to refer to this one as the “sex pool.” After all, if it didn’t have the potential to become such a thing, why put up the sign?
There were about ten or twelve people in the sex pool, a number that changed regularly. Some were single and a few were couples. The singles for the most part stood silently with their backs against the wall, equally spaced, looking for all the world like carvings of gods and goddesses that might have decorated some ancient temple. The couples mostly clung to each other. In one corner, underneath the canopy of fig leaves that covered half the pool, two guys were kissing. Down at the other end a pair of black women had just entered the pool. Within a minute they had clutched so close together that what had originally been two heads now, through the steamy darkness, appeared to be one. And more than once I heard them giggling.
Other couples chose various positions, often with the man in a sitting position with his back against the wall while his partner straddled his lap facing him. Unless you count light kissing I saw no sign of any sexual contact in the meditation pool. Then again, like icebergs, I could only see the top part of the bodies. I had no idea what might be going on beneath the surface.
At one point I silently signaled to my companion to lie on her back and I gently, quietly, floated her in the warm water. Then she faced me and we put our arms around each other as I guided her around the tranquil pool. It was like dancing in space, weightless and warm. At one point I looked up through the fig leaves and gazed at the stars peeking through. Peace.
But there was more to do. Periodically one or two people would climb some steps out of the meditation pool and disappear into a small attached building. Finally I did the same and found that the room-sized cement enclosure contained yet another pool. I took a step down the stairs, allowed my foot to touch the water, and immediately thought that something had gone horribly, horribly wrong. It felt as if I had stepped into a pot of boiling water, and I immediately yanked my foot out.
This was the very hot pool that I had read about. At least I hoped it was. It was hard to imagine that there might be an even
more scorching one. The water was 112 degrees, which is actually only eight degrees hotter than my backyard hot tub. You know, it might as well have been sixty degrees hotter. That’s how it felt. Still, as they said in a movie that I’ve forgotten the title of: what one man can do another can do. And since there was already a man (and a woman!) in the searing water I knew that I must go in too.
After overcoming the initial fear that I was on my way to being served with crusty bread and drawn butter the hot pool turned out to be a surprisingly pleasant sensation. Like a mud bath, the warmth was soothing and all encompassing. And unlike a mud bath there was no foreign matter getting stuck in private places best left uninvaded by mud, muck and other foreign substances.
I was soaking for about three minutes when my naked companion strolled through the door. Immediately a huge grin appeared on my face as I waved her in. This, I knew, would be good. Like me she placed her foot onto the first step to test the water. And like me she immediately pulled it out. But unlike me she simply waved good-bye and disappeared through the door and back into the tolerable waters of the sex pool. She wouldn’t be coming back.
I was feeling well-cooked, but I knew that I had one more pool to try. With an incongruous combination of regret and relief I pulled myself from this hottest of tubs, walked outside into the night air and climbed the wooden walkway which led further up into the fig tree to another wooden deck and another soaking pool. I put my foot into the water and this time it was just what I expected. The water was a chilling 60 degrees. Soon I was fully submerged in the icy spring water and, like every other pool I had tried, it was delightful. The 50-plus drop in water temperature had produced the desired effect: I felt truly and wondrously alive. And five minutes later, after the chill had settled into my body, I knew that if I wanted to
stay alive I had better return to the warming waters of the sex pool.
A short time later my companion and I returned to our cottage, relaxed and invigorated at the same time. We slept well that night, naked and unbridled and filled with dreams. We awoke early and climbed out of bed some time later. We packed what little we had brought and checked out of the peace of Harbin and back into the real and suddenly noisy world. We didn’t even have to say it—we knew we’d be back.
Ironically Harbin Hot Springs is located within spitting distance of Robert Louis Stevenson State Park; ironic because it was Stevenson who once described sightseeing as “the art of disappointment.” Which only goes to show you: you can be a literary genius who writes classics like
Treasure Island and
Dr Jekyll and Mr. Hyde and still not know everything.