During the summer of 1976 I worked at the second-best job I ever had: I was a tour guide at the San Diego Wild Animal Park. If you’ve never been to the SDWAP I’ll tell you it is a unique and forward-thinking “zoo” where the animals roam freely over huge areas of land and the people ride around in an electric monorail on an hour-long tour, taking them to a variety of areas that represent different geographic locations, such as Asia, Africa and Australia.
It was here that I felt the first stirrings that would culminate fifteen years later in a six-week trip to Africa. My job was to drive the monorail as well as give the tour to the two carloads of tourists. I’ve had other jobs as a tour guide, but the Wild Animal Park was unique in that you never knew what you were going to see each time you ventured out. A baby rhino, a running giraffe or a close-up of a tiger—the tourists on each sojourn might see one or several of these but the guide would eventually see it all.
Another nice thing about the job was the high pay. Since the guides drove the monorail we belonged to the Teamsters union, and so the starting pay was an unheard of five dollars an hour. My previous job had been at a convenience store that had paid $2.86 an hour, a sum I was thrilled to receive since it was more than half a buck over the minimum wage at the time. By nearly doubling my wage at the Wild Animal Park I was able to live well by working a mere thirty hours a week, and in a beautiful location at a fun job.
The job was fun because it was, discounting my two weak attempts at stand-up comedy, the closest I’ve ever come to show business. As part of my training I made sure to learn every joke that the other guides told, and combined them all into that one big laugh-fest that was my tour. It was great because I had a captive audience; nobody was going to leave a monorail with a pride of hungry lions on one side and a five-thousand-pound rhinoceros on the other.
Franz, the tightly wound European elephant trainer at the park, once cornered me at a party. “Why do you always say the same joke every time you drive by?” he demanded in his brusque Nazi voice. The answer, of course, was that I had a new group of people on each tour. So even though Franz had heard me say that you shouldn’t be embarrassed “because our elephants never go swimming without their trunks” twenty or thirty times a week, my tourist charges were always hearing it for the first time. So it was tough toenails, Adolph. As long as the people kept laughing at the line, I’d keep saying it.
So of course one of my top priorities on last week’s return to San Diego was to visit the Wild Animal Park for the first time since I gave my final tour nearly thirty years ago. Unfortunately the day we picked to go had to be one of their busiest ever. Even the overflow parking was filled to capacity and the line to get on the tour had signs warning that the “wait from this point is two hours.” And that wasn’t even at the end of the line.
Had I visited twenty-five years earlier I may well have waited in that horrific line, but that was then. As if we needed any further proof that we live in nothing close to a class-less society, we discovered a booth where, for only eight dollars, cheaper than the cost of a movie, you could buy a little slip of paper that would get you to the front of the line. Screw Karl Marx—I’m in.
A few years ago Spike and I were island hopping in Greece when we boarded a ferry that was filled to capacity. The trip would be about five hours long, and it seemed we were fated to spend the voyage sitting in cheap plastic chairs in a busy hallway just outside the gift shop. Walking around the boat we saw a screened-off area where people lounged on couches and enjoyed drinks and complimentary peanuts. Complimentary peanuts! We soon found out that this was the first class area and that we could upgrade our tickets and enter the chosen land for a measly twelve dollars. Over the years Spike and I have frequently referred to that purchase (as well as the purchase of our Softub) as “the best money we ever spent.” And now the eight-dollar upgraded tour tickets at the Wild Animal Park will forever be included in that list.
My first surprise was the monorail itself. Damned if they weren’t the same ones that I had driven three decades ago. I guess I had been expecting some Jetson-like technological upgrades. Sure, the monorails had been cutting edge back when I worked there, but surely the edge had moved since that time. I mean, this had been during the
Ford administration for god sake.
We sat about four rows behind the driver, a cute young girl somewhere in her twenties. And she knew she was cute and she knew she was young, as we all do at that point in our lives. And so I sat back in my delightfully judgmental way to listen to and analyze her tour, and to eventually conclude that mine had been so much better.
First off, she was too cutesy. There’s a difference between being cute and cutesy; this chick had on several occasions descended into near baby babble and it wasn’t pretty. Also, she repeatedly complained about the poor operation of the monorail and also commented frequently that the tour was, “right on schedule.” These, as any good guide will tell you, are things that should be kept to yourself. These two carloads of shlubs had paid twenty-eight bucks each to go on this little joyride and they sure as hell don’t want to hear your complaints about the mechanical limitations of the vehicle or the tight schedule they have you working on. Save your whiney complaints for your co-workers—they love them.
“Great job!” I said to the guide when the tour was finished. Oh, did you think I wasn’t going to speak with her? Don’t young people just love to hear about the way things used to be thirty years ago? Well, when I told her I had her job way back when she seemed genuinely interested. No really, she did. She asked me if it had changed much, and I told her no. I would have liked to babble on with her and her co-workers, but I knew she was on a tight schedule and she had been polite and friendly. She could have sent me off with a “Yeah, that’s great Gramps but now we have electricity,” but she didn’t. And I’d bet anything that she told some of the other guides that some old guy who worked there thirty years ago had been on her tour.
And so I didn’t ask her about any people that we might know in common, which of course would have been preposterous anyway. It’s not like I worked there three or four years ago. The only ones who could possibly still be there from my glory years was some hundred-year-old tortoise and maybe a decrepit old elephant or two.
Another stop on my San Diego excursion was a visit to the beautiful beach town of La Jolla. We bit the bullet and spent one night there in an overpriced hotel. We went out to dinner shortly after we checked in, and found that one of the few places still open was a fondue restaurant. Yum. I had been craving fondue ever since I last had it in April in a small café in Paris. (I’m really dropping the travel references here, aren’t I? Too bad--it’s my life. And what’s stopping you from getting off your ass and going anyway?)
Spike had the impression that the maitre d’ was showing us the menu because he thought that perhaps he didn’t think we could afford to dine there. True, I was rather shabbily dressed with rumpled jeans and Neil Young flannel shirt, but there were two reasons for my scruffy appearance. One, I had just driven for eleven straight hours to get to La Jolla, and Two, I always look like this.
The truth was he was showing us the expensive combo fondue dinner, which included appetizers, entrees and dessert because he was trying to up-sell us. Too bad, but we settled on a simple entrée. There’s only so much melted goop you can pour down your gullet in one evening. That’s OK, I got back at the pushy guy. I began my tale of how I used to moped down to La Jolla all those years ago. Why, I even remember when the natural stone arch still existed at the cove, and I also remember the storm that destroyed it. You’ve probably only seen the arch in old photos, if that. So stick that in your five gallons of melted cheese. Punk.
The main reason for my return to La Jolla, besides my inability to find Pacific Beach at night, was to find the gift shop where, for a small fee, you could descend about 150 steps to the opening of a sea cave. It’s a beautiful sight and I looked forward to seeing it again. I had no difficulty finding the gift shop the next day, and although it was now a small museum I was happy to learn that you could still walk down that long stairway to the cave below. A young girl sat at a desk with a cashbox and a sign that read: Cave Entry: Four Dollars.”
“You’ve raised your prices,” I joked.
“Yeah, last year we added a dollar,” she dead-panned.
“No, last time I was here it cost fifty cents!” I exclaimed with glee. I mean, isn’t this kind of info fascinating and fun? Well, it wasn’t to her.
“Yeah, well, that was a long time ago.”
“Two tickets please.” Punk.
So not everybody wanted to hear the story of my triumphant return. (And let me add here that I also visited a convenience store in Escondido in which I had worked in 1975--my first California job--and the clerk has literally beamed when I told him my story. He told me the history of the store from the time I had worked there and laughed heartily when I asked him why they didn’t have my picture hanging on the wall. So there.)
The cave was much as I remembered and I took a photo of Spike that should be nearly identical (Yup, I’m having the film developed. Did you really think I had gone digital?) to the one I had taken of my cousin Terri in that same location decades earlier.
Looking out at the sea from that spectacular cave in La Jolla I felt much as I did the last time I had been there. The crisp salt air and the sea spray made me feel alive. I felt as if no time had passed at all. A short time later I finally reached the top step of the climb out of the cave and, wheezing like a pregnant water buffalo, I stumbled out of the small museum and began to greedily gulp the much needed oxygen. Perhaps I had been wrong when I was down in that cave. Perhaps some time had passed after all.